Why it is meta
Road Racing (A, RWD, Stock or 3.0L I6-T Racing): The FE perk car that handles both pavement and off-road at A-class. Sold at the Sotoyama Ski Resort aftermarket.
Cross Country (S1, AWD, Stock or 3.0L I6-T Racing): The accessible alternative to the Viper FE at the top of cross-country boards.
In FH6, power is the biggest differentiator in road racing. Fill the car with as much horsepower as the PI budget allows, then tune the chassis to control it. You want strong corner exit traction, sharp turn-in, and stable braking. FH6 has more linear steering response and more forgiving braking than previous titles, so builds can be pushed closer to neutral balance. Aero is crucial at higher classes for maintaining grip through fast corners.
Upgrade Priority
- Engine Swap or Power Upgrades Power is the biggest performance differentiator in FH6. More horsepower means faster straights and stronger exits, which add up to bigger lap time gains than any handling upgrade. Fill the car with as much power as the PI budget allows.
- Race Transmission (10-Speed) Unlocks individual gear ratio and final drive tuning. A 10-speed keeps the engine in its power band and cuts time lost between shifts, so matched gearing turns your power into lap time. Without it, extra power is wasted bouncing off the limiter or bogging down.
- Semi-Slick, Off-Road or Rally Tyres At A class you can afford semi-slick, but the off-road and rally tyre meta is at its strongest here: leaderboard A-class builds run them for the PI saving and give up very little grip.
- Race Differential Unlocks acceleration and deceleration lock. Controls how the power reaches the wheels on corner exit. Without it you cannot manage wheelspin or trail braking.
- Front Tyre Width Widening the front tyres is one of the cheapest grip upgrades per PI point. More front grip means you can carry speed into corners and use the power earlier on exit.
- Race Anti-Roll Bars Unlocks front and rear ARB tuning. The ARB split controls whether the car understeers or oversteers. Use the mechanical balance readout to dial it to 0.60.
- Race Suspension Unlocks spring rate, damping, and ride height tuning. Minimum ride height lowers the centre of gravity. Springs calculated from your weight distribution give an accurate front-rear split.
- Rear Tyre Width Wider rears improve traction on corner exit, letting you get on the power harder and earlier. Especially important for RWD cars with high power.
- Weight Reduction Lighter cars brake later, turn faster, and accelerate harder. Spend remaining PI on weight reduction after power and tyres are sorted.
- Race Brakes Unlocks brake balance tuning. Prevents rear lock-up under heavy braking and lets you brake later into corners.
Best Value Per PI
Spend Here First
| Upgrade | Why |
|---|---|
| Centrifugal Supercharger | Currently the single biggest performance-per-PI item in FH6: it adds huge power for far less PI than it should, almost certainly a bug. If your car can fit one, it is the strongest power upgrade available until it is patched. Expect it to be nerfed in a future update. |
| Race Exhaust | The best power-per-PI upgrade in the core engine tree. Install this on every build. |
| Race Intake | Second best power-per-PI in the engine tree. Pair with Race Intake Manifold to unlock its full gain. |
| Race Ignition | Very cheap PI for consistent gains across the whole rev range. |
| Sport or Race Flywheel | Often free performance: on many cars the weight saving outweighs the PI cost, so PI stays flat or even drops while throttle response improves. Watch the PI counter when you fit it. |
| Sport or Race Driveline | Typically 1 to 3 PI for 10 to 25 kg off the rotating drivetrain. One of the quietest bargains in the shop. |
| Race Transmission (10-Speed) | A 10-speed race gearbox keeps the engine in its power band and cuts time lost between shifts. The extra ratios are cheap PI for a real acceleration gain, and let you tune final drive precisely to the track. A meta pick on almost every build. |
| Front Tyre Width | The cheapest grip per PI point on tarmac. Often costs less than a compound step for a similar gain in turn-in and braking. |
| Off-Road or Rally Tyres | The current road meta at A class: both give near race-compound braking and cornering for a fraction of the PI, freeing the budget for power. Off-road grips slightly harder; rally holds up better on any tarmac sections. Almost certainly over-performing, so expect a patch, but until then they are the value pick on tarmac. |
| Weight Reduction | The best PI-to-performance conversion overall: one upgrade improves acceleration, braking, and cornering at the same time. |
| Lighter Rims | Reduces unsprung and rotating mass for very little PI. Experiment with rim style and size while watching the PI counter. |
Poor Value, Usually Skip
| Upgrade | Why |
|---|---|
| Race Displacement | The biggest single power gain but also the most PI-expensive, typically 30 to 60 PI. It usually pushes you past your class ceiling for marginal benefit. |
| Race Pistons and Compression | High PI cost and shifts power toward high RPM, making the car peakier to drive. |
| Positive-Displacement Supercharger | Costs more PI than a comparable turbo for similar output. Only worth it when you specifically need instant low-end torque. |
| Rally Suspension Parts | Rally springs and dampers actively hurt tarmac builds. Note this is about suspension, not tyres: rally and off-road rubber are currently legitimate meta picks at lower classes. |
| Drag Tyres (Outside Drag) | The Series 2 patch removed their cornering grip while keeping the PI cost. The old cheap-PI drag tyre exploit no longer works anywhere except the drag strip. |
Tuning
Tyres
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Compound | Semi-Slick |
| Front Tyre Width | 275mm |
| Rear Tyre Width | 305mm |
| Front Pressure | 29.0 PSI cold |
| Rear Pressure | 28.5 PSI cold |
The standard competitive compound. These cold pressures climb to the optimal 32 to 34 PSI once warm (usually 1 to 2 laps). RWD runs higher front pressure for sharper turn-in; FWD higher still to reduce understeer. Widening front tyres is one of the most PI-efficient grip upgrades in FH6.
Gearing
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Final Drive | 3.95 (assumes ~580 hp build) |
| 6-Speed Ratios | 2.97 / 2.07 / 1.6 / 1.3 / 1.1 / 0.96 |
| Strategy | Hit the rev limiter at the end of the longest straight |
The final drive is calculated for a ~580 hp A-class build. On speed circuits lengthen it by 0.2 to 0.3; on tight technical circuits shorten it by the same. The ratio ladder is a close-ratio race pattern: if you run more than 6 gears, keep the same top and bottom ratios and space the extras evenly between them. Shorten 1st slightly if you bog off slow corners.
Alignment
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Front Camber | -1.8 |
| Rear Camber | -1.3 |
| Front Toe | 0.0 to 0.1 out |
| Rear Toe | 0.0 to 0.1 in |
| Caster | 5.5 to 6.0 |
Moderate camber keeps the tyre surface on the road through body roll. A little front toe-out sharpens turn-in; keep rear toe-in small (0.0 to 0.1) because too much rear toe-in plants the rear and makes the car understeer. Caster scales with weight, but avoid going too high: excess caster loads the front tyres in a way that dulls turn-in and adds understeer.
Anti-Roll Bars
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Front | 17.2 |
| Rear | 28.1 |
| Mech. Balance Target | 0.55 to 0.65 (aim 0.60) |
The split runs a soft front and stiffer rear to fight understeer: softening the front bar gives the nose more grip, and the stiffer rear helps the car rotate. Use the mechanical balance readout and aim for 0.55 to 0.65. To cure understeer, always soften the front rather than stiffening the rear, which only makes the rear looser.
Springs
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Front Springs | 743 lbs/in |
| Rear Springs | 633 lbs/in |
| Front Ride Height | Minimum |
| Rear Ride Height | Minimum |
Springs are calculated from your car's weight and distribution, targeting a firm 2.6 to 3.2 Hz race frequency that stiffens with class. Modern FH6 tarmac tunes run stiff, so these are deliberately on the harder side for sharp response and body control. Minimum ride height lowers the centre of gravity for grip on smooth tarmac. If a value falls below your car's slider range, just set the lowest the car allows.
Damping
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Front Rebound | 10.3 |
| Rear Rebound | 8.8 |
| Front Bump | 6.2 |
| Rear Bump | 5.3 |
Damping follows the spring frequency and the weight over each axle: the heavier end gets the stiffer damper. Bump is 60% of rebound. If the car feels harsh over kerbs, reduce bump on both axles first.
Aero
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Front Downforce | 40% of total aero (if fitted) |
| Rear Downforce | 60% of total aero (if fitted) |
| Aero Balance Target | 0.40 to 0.45 |
The meta aero balance is 0.40 to 0.45, meaning roughly 40% front and 60% rear downforce. This gives a stable, rear-planted car at speed. Check the aero balance readout in the tuning menu and adjust sliders to hit this target. Maximum downforce at both ends is generally fastest for circuits.
Brakes
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Brake Balance | 50% to 55% |
| Brake Pressure | 108% |
Front-biased brake balance prevents rear lock-up under heavy braking. FWD cars need more front bias as the rear is lighter. Pressure above 100% lets you brake later, which is where lap time is won; back it off if you lock up regularly. If the car spins under braking, move the balance further forward.
Differential
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Acceleration | 91% |
| Deceleration | 10% to 20% |
High accel lock (75 to 95%) puts power down on exit and keeps both rear wheels working together; drop 5% at a time if the rear pushes wide on tight exits. Keep deceleration lock low (10 to 20% for road racing): higher decel steadies the car on lift-off, which is a common hidden cause of corner-entry understeer. Lower it further if the car still will not rotate.
Adjustment Tips
- In FH6, power wins. Maximise horsepower first, then add handling parts to control it. A fast car with average grip beats a slow car with perfect grip.
- If the car understeers, fix the front, do not stiffen the rear. Soften the front ARB 2 to 3 points, then drop differential deceleration lock toward 10%. Both free the car to turn in.
- For understeer on corner entry specifically, lower the deceleration diff lock first: high decel lock steadies the rear on lift-off, which stops the car rotating into the corner.
- For understeer on corner exit, ease the acceleration diff lock down 2 to 3% at a time, and make sure you are not simply overpowering the front grip out of slow corners.
- More front camber (another 0.3 to 0.5 negative) and a touch of front toe-out add front bite if the car still will not turn.
- If the rear steps out under braking, move brake balance forward by 2% to 3%.
- If you are losing time on straights, check your gearing. You should be near the rev limiter at the end of the longest straight.
- If the car bounces over kerbs, reduce bump stiffness on both axles.
- If the car feels floaty or disconnected at high speed, increase aero downforce and stiffen springs.
- If you have excessive wheelspin on corner exit, increase differential accel lock by 5% to 10%.
- Widening front tyres is one of the most effective grip upgrades in FH6. It often costs less PI than upgrading the tyre compound.
- Check tyre pressures after 2 warm laps using telemetry. They should read 32 to 34 PSI warm. Adjust the cold pressures until they settle in that window.
- For wet conditions, drop tyre pressures 3 to 4 PSI from your dry setup, soften the ARBs, and extend your braking zones. In winter, drop 2 to 3 PSI and soften bump damping slightly.
- Chase world records in Rivals mode. The ghost gives instant feedback on where your tune gains or loses time, and conditions are consistent between runs.
- Test on the track you intend to race. A tune built on a highway will feel completely different on a tight circuit.
- Always install Race Differential and Race Anti-Roll Bars. These two upgrades unlock the most impactful tuning settings.
- Heavier cars need stiffer springs and more downforce to remain competitive.
- Lighter, agile cars may benefit from slightly softer springs to maintain mechanical grip.
- AWD swap is usually the meta up to S1 class: the launch and corner-exit traction outweigh the PI cost. At S2, staying RWD becomes competitive because the PI saved buys more power.
- Race clutch and driveline are among the cheapest PI upgrades in the game and directly cut shift time. Buy them before weight reduction.
- On circuits with long straights, drop rear downforce towards minimum and lengthen the final drive. On technical circuits run maximum downforce at both ends. One tune does not fit all tracks.
- PI is a budget: every point spent on a part you do not need is a point not spent on power or tyres. Avoid cosmetic-adjacent upgrades (chassis reinforcement, roll cage) unless you need the PI dump.
- Ignore any pre-Series 2 tune or guide that runs drag tyres on road builds. The Series 2 patch removed their cornering grip (PI cost unchanged), and Series 3 wiped every Rivals leaderboard to clear the times that exploit set. The boards you are chasing now are clean.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Subaru BRZ Forza Edition good in Forza Horizon 6?
Yes. It is a current meta pick for Road Racing and Cross Country at A, S1 class, straight from the FH6 Rivals leaderboards.
What class is the Subaru BRZ Forza Edition best at?
It is meta at A, S1 class in Forza Horizon 6.
How should I run the Subaru BRZ Forza Edition?
Run it RWD with Stock or 3.0L I6-T Racing. The full upgrade order and exact tuning values are on this page.
Tweak this build for a different class or discipline in the FH6 tuning calculator, or read the Road Racing setting guide.